California Adventure: Day 1
Our day began at 3:40 a.m. Alarms are not my thing. I often don't use one and when I do, I'm usually awake before it goes off. Not on this day. We were boarding at 5:15 a.m and needed enough time to stand in the bag check line. Checking bags is also not my thing, but because we had our backpacking and hiking gear, we each checked two bags. Thank you Southwest Airlines for allowing us to do that without charging us $100.
Our flight was MEM to OAK with a layover in MDW. We were in MDW long enough to enjoy a leisurely Irish breakfast, which was surprisingly good. I don't have high expectations for airport food or service, but I was pleased with my meal and we had excellent service. I've never flown through MDW. I liked it. Small airport, very clean. We stopped to enjoy the memorial to the Battle of Midway. I love that airports now have art and history displays. This was one of the better ones I've seen, giving the viewer good information and allowing for reflection. By the time we had finished breakfast and viewed the exhibit it was time to board our flight to OAK. We would be in San Francisco in a matter of hours. I love West Coast travel. If you fly out early, you have the entire day ahead of you.
The St. Regis: Perfection from arrival to departure. Everything about this hotel is top notch. Sometimes you pay a premium, but you do not get a premium experience (Bellagio, I'm looking at you). Not so at the St. Regis. Everything was right at the St. Regis. It's spotless, has a beautiful contemporary design, and the employees truly know how to deliver hospitality. As we pulled into the portico, we were greeted by a sharp-looking doorman with an impeccably groomed mustache. I typically carry my own luggage when checking in to a hotel. In other hotels, it sometimes seems like the bellman isn't immediately available or there is an awkwardness about having someone else carry your luggage. The transition at the St. Regis is so seamless, I barely noticed that all of our luggage had been whisked away. Our room was a beautifully appointed corner room overlooking the Museum of Modern Art (MOMA) and Yerba Buena Gardens.
After receiving our luggage, we showered, changed, and decided to take a stroll through Yerba Buena to discuss our next move. We hadn't pre-planned any activities for the day. We happened to be across the street from MOMA. I had been to MOMA many years ago and would have preferred the Legion of Honor, but it is closed on Mondays. We decided to walk across the street and spend the afternoon at MOMA. We bought general admission tickets and paid for a timed entry into Rene Magritte: The Fifth Season. While I'm familiar with Magritte and some of his work, I can't say I've ever studied or particularly admired it. I always feel like I need a little more education on Surrealism and a guided tour would have been helpful. They were offered, but full. Nonetheless, we enjoyed the exhibit. I happened to notice that the doormen at the St. Regis wear bowler hats. Coincidence? Probably so.
We next viewed another special exhibit (one included in general admission): Susan Meiselas: Meditations. This is probably where we spent the most time. We are both drawn to photography and her work was captivating. It included candid images of carnival strippers from the early 1970s, both backstage and on stage. There were also heart-wrenching photographs of conflicts in Central America and the aftermath of the Kurdish genocide. The highlight for me was the Prince Street Girls Project. Meiselas began photographing pre-teen girls hanging out on the streets in Little Italy in the 1970s. She photographed the same group of girls for over a decade. We can see 1970s New York in the movies and imagine what it must have been like, but these are raw images of the neighborhood and the real people who inhabited it. We see them riding the subway, drinking in bars, and socializing on stoops. There was something intriguing about these young women and I spent a lot of time studying their facial expressions and body language.
After leaving the photography exhibit, we went to the top floor and decided to work our way down. Chris joked that he wasn't leaving until we saw a toilet on display. We didn't see a toilet, but we did see this:
Share with me in the comments what you think of this piece? I have to tell you, I've felt a range of emotions about it since I saw it. I'm not going to lie, I burst out laughing when we walked into the room. Out loud. In MOMA. Jeff Koons' Michael Jackson and Bubbles is a larger than life sculpture and it is most definitely where your eye goes when you walk into the room. We saw Picasso's, Braque's, Warhol's, Lichenstein's, and Rothko's, but we couldn't stop talking about MJ and Bubbles. We discussed Michael Jackson's iconic status, what it means to be an icon and what it says about us as a society that we can idolize a person in that way. We tried to think of other artists that have reached world fame in the way Jackson did (Elvis, the Beatles). But who else? Has there been another? Not Prince. I love Prince, but he's not the King, nor is he MJ or the Beatles. I suppose reasonable minds can differ, but I don't think anyone has reached that level of fame since Michael Jackson. Can you? We had more off shoot conversations from that sculpture than any other piece in the museum. Well played, Jeff Koons, well played.
But I don't want to let MJ and Bubbles steal the show. By far the high-water mark was Matisse's Femme au chapeau (Woman with a Hat). Matisse is a favorite of mine and I've always loved this painting, so it was a treat to see it. It's housed on the 2nd floor and it was the last room we saw before exiting, which made my heart happy.
By the time we left MOMA, it was time for our early dinner reservation. Our restaurant was too far to walk with the shoes I was wearing, but close enough to take advantage of the hotel's courtesy car. As we stood under the portico, I was waiting for a Lincoln Town Car to stop in front of us. Instead, we got this. When that car pulled up in front of us and those doors opened up, I was like, "Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads." I was ready to be transported back to 1955. Well, actually, it's a thirty-year time machine, so we would be transported back to 1988. Then I realized that Back to the Future was released in 1985 and in 1985, I had already been alive for...You know what, it doesn't matter? I digress. Back to present day San Francisco.
Dinner: Deciding what to eat in San Francisco can be overwhelming. There are so many top notch choices and so many different kinds of fare. We decided we wanted something we cannot get back home in Memphis: Chinese food. Not take-out or buffet (I don't eat either), but actual Chinese food. Based on a friend of a friend's recommendation, we ate at China Live in Chinatown. It was the perfect spot. Had we been in Chinatown for lunch, we would have wandered into a dingy dim sum joint and been completely happy. We were feeling something more upscale for dinner and China Live fit the bill. It has an open layout, sophisticated decor, an extensive menu of traditional dishes, as well as options with a modern twist. While I'm willing to go into any dim sum restaurant and just pull whatever looks good off the roving cart, I consider myself a novice when it comes to Asian food. China Live is perfect for novices. You are out-of-the box enough that it's an adventure, but its upscale, contemporary vibe and knowledgeable servers make the place accessible to all. China Live manages to create enough of a balance that its clientele are a mix of Chinese Americans, tourists, and a cross section of locals.
The menu is broken down into several headings: Salads & Deep Fry, Dim Sum, Barbeque, Rice & Noodle & Soup, etc... We ordered one option from a few of the headings. Most are little plates that you share, so we were able to sample several different dishes. We enjoyed a calamari, barbecue, pot stickers, bao, and a variety of other dumplings The beverage menu included an extensive selection of wine, beer, and specialty cocktails. I ordered a glass of gewurztraminer. Yes, German wine at a Chinese restaurant. It paired perfectly with my rich, spicy food. Now for dessert. I'm an adventurous eater, but I draw the line at most desserts that hail from the Far East. Since China Live is the kind of place with gewurztraminer on the drink menu and the chef is willing to take heat for his non-authentic dishes, I decided to try the "Brulee Egg Tart with Black Mission Figs, Chrysanthemum Tulie." It was to die for. It was more dough-y and had less custard than a more traditional creme brulee. I had some of the best Creme Brulee I've ever had at a Chinese Restaurant. Dear France: Sorry, not sorry.
After filling our bellies, we headed back to enjoy a cocktail at the hotel bar. Maybe I'm alone here, but I love hotel bars. I admit, they can be hit or miss. I don't care what the Google reviews say, skip the grappa bar at the Intercontinental in San Francisco. Don't miss the Round Robin at the Willard Intercontinental in D.C. It's one of my all-time favorites. The setting at the St. Regis isn't particularly unique and there isn't a view, but the service was excellent, as expected, and my cocktail was divine. A good bartender is an artist. Chris ordered a classic Manhattan. I ordered off the specialty cocktail menu. "Layers of Fog" is made with No. 209 Gin Cabernet Sauvignon Barrel Reserve, Jasmine Syrup, Bitters, Lemon, and Egg White. I wouldn't normally describe a gin cocktail as earthy and complex, but I can't think of another way to describe it. It made for easy drinking, so I made sure to only have one.
After our cocktails, we turned in for the evening. The St. Regis has evening turn down service. It's another touch that made our stay more pleasurable. When we returned to our room, the blackout shades had been lowered, the lights were dimmed, our slippers were set out by the bed, and there was soft music playing at the exact perfect volume. What a way to end a day that started with my alarm jarring me awake 2,000 miles away.
Amanda is the owner of Travel Adventures by Amanda, powered by Dream Vacations, specializing in cruises, tours, treks, and custom independent travel adventures for individuals, families, and groups. For help planning your next adventure, contact Amanda at (901) 901-800-6091 or abiggerstaff@dreamvacations.com.
Our flight was MEM to OAK with a layover in MDW. We were in MDW long enough to enjoy a leisurely Irish breakfast, which was surprisingly good. I don't have high expectations for airport food or service, but I was pleased with my meal and we had excellent service. I've never flown through MDW. I liked it. Small airport, very clean. We stopped to enjoy the memorial to the Battle of Midway. I love that airports now have art and history displays. This was one of the better ones I've seen, giving the viewer good information and allowing for reflection. By the time we had finished breakfast and viewed the exhibit it was time to board our flight to OAK. We would be in San Francisco in a matter of hours. I love West Coast travel. If you fly out early, you have the entire day ahead of you.
The St. Regis: Perfection from arrival to departure. Everything about this hotel is top notch. Sometimes you pay a premium, but you do not get a premium experience (Bellagio, I'm looking at you). Not so at the St. Regis. Everything was right at the St. Regis. It's spotless, has a beautiful contemporary design, and the employees truly know how to deliver hospitality. As we pulled into the portico, we were greeted by a sharp-looking doorman with an impeccably groomed mustache. I typically carry my own luggage when checking in to a hotel. In other hotels, it sometimes seems like the bellman isn't immediately available or there is an awkwardness about having someone else carry your luggage. The transition at the St. Regis is so seamless, I barely noticed that all of our luggage had been whisked away. Our room was a beautifully appointed corner room overlooking the Museum of Modern Art (MOMA) and Yerba Buena Gardens.
We next viewed another special exhibit (one included in general admission): Susan Meiselas: Meditations. This is probably where we spent the most time. We are both drawn to photography and her work was captivating. It included candid images of carnival strippers from the early 1970s, both backstage and on stage. There were also heart-wrenching photographs of conflicts in Central America and the aftermath of the Kurdish genocide. The highlight for me was the Prince Street Girls Project. Meiselas began photographing pre-teen girls hanging out on the streets in Little Italy in the 1970s. She photographed the same group of girls for over a decade. We can see 1970s New York in the movies and imagine what it must have been like, but these are raw images of the neighborhood and the real people who inhabited it. We see them riding the subway, drinking in bars, and socializing on stoops. There was something intriguing about these young women and I spent a lot of time studying their facial expressions and body language.
After leaving the photography exhibit, we went to the top floor and decided to work our way down. Chris joked that he wasn't leaving until we saw a toilet on display. We didn't see a toilet, but we did see this:
Share with me in the comments what you think of this piece? I have to tell you, I've felt a range of emotions about it since I saw it. I'm not going to lie, I burst out laughing when we walked into the room. Out loud. In MOMA. Jeff Koons' Michael Jackson and Bubbles is a larger than life sculpture and it is most definitely where your eye goes when you walk into the room. We saw Picasso's, Braque's, Warhol's, Lichenstein's, and Rothko's, but we couldn't stop talking about MJ and Bubbles. We discussed Michael Jackson's iconic status, what it means to be an icon and what it says about us as a society that we can idolize a person in that way. We tried to think of other artists that have reached world fame in the way Jackson did (Elvis, the Beatles). But who else? Has there been another? Not Prince. I love Prince, but he's not the King, nor is he MJ or the Beatles. I suppose reasonable minds can differ, but I don't think anyone has reached that level of fame since Michael Jackson. Can you? We had more off shoot conversations from that sculpture than any other piece in the museum. Well played, Jeff Koons, well played.
But I don't want to let MJ and Bubbles steal the show. By far the high-water mark was Matisse's Femme au chapeau (Woman with a Hat). Matisse is a favorite of mine and I've always loved this painting, so it was a treat to see it. It's housed on the 2nd floor and it was the last room we saw before exiting, which made my heart happy.
By the time we left MOMA, it was time for our early dinner reservation. Our restaurant was too far to walk with the shoes I was wearing, but close enough to take advantage of the hotel's courtesy car. As we stood under the portico, I was waiting for a Lincoln Town Car to stop in front of us. Instead, we got this. When that car pulled up in front of us and those doors opened up, I was like, "Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads." I was ready to be transported back to 1955. Well, actually, it's a thirty-year time machine, so we would be transported back to 1988. Then I realized that Back to the Future was released in 1985 and in 1985, I had already been alive for...You know what, it doesn't matter? I digress. Back to present day San Francisco.
Dinner: Deciding what to eat in San Francisco can be overwhelming. There are so many top notch choices and so many different kinds of fare. We decided we wanted something we cannot get back home in Memphis: Chinese food. Not take-out or buffet (I don't eat either), but actual Chinese food. Based on a friend of a friend's recommendation, we ate at China Live in Chinatown. It was the perfect spot. Had we been in Chinatown for lunch, we would have wandered into a dingy dim sum joint and been completely happy. We were feeling something more upscale for dinner and China Live fit the bill. It has an open layout, sophisticated decor, an extensive menu of traditional dishes, as well as options with a modern twist. While I'm willing to go into any dim sum restaurant and just pull whatever looks good off the roving cart, I consider myself a novice when it comes to Asian food. China Live is perfect for novices. You are out-of-the box enough that it's an adventure, but its upscale, contemporary vibe and knowledgeable servers make the place accessible to all. China Live manages to create enough of a balance that its clientele are a mix of Chinese Americans, tourists, and a cross section of locals.
The menu is broken down into several headings: Salads & Deep Fry, Dim Sum, Barbeque, Rice & Noodle & Soup, etc... We ordered one option from a few of the headings. Most are little plates that you share, so we were able to sample several different dishes. We enjoyed a calamari, barbecue, pot stickers, bao, and a variety of other dumplings The beverage menu included an extensive selection of wine, beer, and specialty cocktails. I ordered a glass of gewurztraminer. Yes, German wine at a Chinese restaurant. It paired perfectly with my rich, spicy food. Now for dessert. I'm an adventurous eater, but I draw the line at most desserts that hail from the Far East. Since China Live is the kind of place with gewurztraminer on the drink menu and the chef is willing to take heat for his non-authentic dishes, I decided to try the "Brulee Egg Tart with Black Mission Figs, Chrysanthemum Tulie." It was to die for. It was more dough-y and had less custard than a more traditional creme brulee. I had some of the best Creme Brulee I've ever had at a Chinese Restaurant. Dear France: Sorry, not sorry.
After filling our bellies, we headed back to enjoy a cocktail at the hotel bar. Maybe I'm alone here, but I love hotel bars. I admit, they can be hit or miss. I don't care what the Google reviews say, skip the grappa bar at the Intercontinental in San Francisco. Don't miss the Round Robin at the Willard Intercontinental in D.C. It's one of my all-time favorites. The setting at the St. Regis isn't particularly unique and there isn't a view, but the service was excellent, as expected, and my cocktail was divine. A good bartender is an artist. Chris ordered a classic Manhattan. I ordered off the specialty cocktail menu. "Layers of Fog" is made with No. 209 Gin Cabernet Sauvignon Barrel Reserve, Jasmine Syrup, Bitters, Lemon, and Egg White. I wouldn't normally describe a gin cocktail as earthy and complex, but I can't think of another way to describe it. It made for easy drinking, so I made sure to only have one.
After our cocktails, we turned in for the evening. The St. Regis has evening turn down service. It's another touch that made our stay more pleasurable. When we returned to our room, the blackout shades had been lowered, the lights were dimmed, our slippers were set out by the bed, and there was soft music playing at the exact perfect volume. What a way to end a day that started with my alarm jarring me awake 2,000 miles away.
Amanda is the owner of Travel Adventures by Amanda, powered by Dream Vacations, specializing in cruises, tours, treks, and custom independent travel adventures for individuals, families, and groups. For help planning your next adventure, contact Amanda at (901) 901-800-6091 or abiggerstaff@dreamvacations.com.
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